I am not used to this forum and a new comer to travel trailers. We recently bought A camplite that is new 21rbs i am in the act of setting up double batteries, Inverter and Midnite KID solar with 4x100W flex panels. We have connected a system/wiring diagram for the the things I’m presently setting up and will also be powering up within the day that is next 2.I would appreciate any feedback in the design to make sure a suitable and SECURE system before We switch on!
The following is a web link to your diagram.
Responses
Thanks for feedback.
Correct the 2000W inverter is large and is sized for operating microwave oven OR expresso device for several minutes each.Yes, how big the inverter may draw a lot of when performing sitting idle and it is made to turn on/off effortlessly, Many Thanks!
All breakers and cables sizes are to spec. This is true of energy center, solar and inverter. Wire lengths are short runs in every full situations.i.e. all 1/0 cable lengths that are positive as much as 0 В· Share on Twitter
1.2KW off grid system; 2 strings of 2ea 305W 60 cellular panels on a redneck ground mount; MNPV3 combiner feeds a MN Vintage 150 located 100′ away; 12V 460AH FLA battery pack bank capabilities a cabin-wide 12V DC system along with a Cotek 700W PSW inverter; Honda EU2000i and IOTA 55A charger bridge cloudy times and a Champion 3800W generator for quick length, energy hungry devices.
Hi Mike,Thanks, you nailed my main problem.
The Midnite Solar KID possesses DC GFP that i’ve maybe maybe not shown because I’m nevertheless looking to get some definitive responses about how exactly to hookup battery pack negative (chassis connect or otherwise not) and ground (framework connect or otherwise not). The factory setup had a battery that is single attached to the framework nothing else brides international. The ability center had all DC negative leads attached to a typical coach club that ended up being linked to the framework also AC ground. AC basic and ground are not fused (by code only bond and that is done at shore energy panel). Therefore my question is do I disconnect the battery pack negative from framework and then leave grounds to frame? Or float ground or another thing? I’ll be setting up the GFP that connects between battery negative and ground and basically disconnects the PV+ during fault today. As shown now it will trip while you state.
Right now I’m tilting towards disconnecting trailer frame from battery negative.
1.2KW down grid system; 2 strings of 2ea 305W 60 cell panels on a redneck ground mount; MNPV3 combiner feeds a MN Vintage 150 located 100′ away; 12V 460AH FLA battery pack bank abilities a cabin-wide 12V DC system along with a Cotek 700W PSW inverter; Honda EU2000i and IOTA 55A charger bridge cloudy times and a Champion 3800W generator for brief length, energy appliances that are hungry.
Fundamentally all grounds get to frame. That features AC ground from coast and all sorts of framework grounds of components. Battery negative normally linked to framework. We included the DC-GPF from Midnite Solar when you look at the last diagram (see express link). We setup tested today and each thing worked fine. Wire length arrived up in several reviews we had off their sources. Keep in mind that the “round journey” period of the 1/0 cable is not as much as 8 legs. from battery terminals to inverter and straight back.
One small modification we will make will be your battery pack bank grounding towards the framework ground. it is suggested that you move it through the negative battery pack post towards the typical negative coach on the other hand for the shunt.
With vehicle lots, many utilize the framework given that return for energy (DC lighting, automotive radio, and such). In which you have actually the framework to battery ground now will “miss” any loads that occur to return present through their framework ground connection(s).
Battery pack bank is tiny for the 2,000 Watt @ 12 VDC inverter. Nominally, I would personally be suggesting a 500 Watt optimum AC that is continuous load. (2,000 watts * 1/0.85 AC inverter eff * 1/10.5 volt battery pack cutoff=) 224 Amp nominal flow that is current maximum AC inverter score.
1/0 cable is NEC ranked for
125 to 170 amps (in conduit)—And if perhaps you were planning to actually run the inverter near 2,000 watts for extended durations of that time period (lots of mins), I would personally be suggesting a 1.25 Wiring+Breaker derating (224 amps * 1.25 derating=)
280 Amp minimum rated Branch Circuit DC present.
If you are using the less conservative Marine standards that are wiring 1/0 is perfect for well over 285 Amps
You don’t show breakers/fuses for a few for the wiring making the bus that is positive for many associated with the other DC loads (hitch plug, cooling fan)–You must have security for those of you connections too (fuses/breakers ranked to size of wiring).